Serial Number Stamping Kit
pinefd
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Serial Number Stamp For Metal
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Serial Number Stamping Tool
Hi guys! I want to extend a big thank you, once again, to all those who helped with this project, and to those who purchased one or more kits. I hope they work out great for everyone.
I had some requests for a video on the whole stamp prep and stamping process, but having never produced one before, I figured it would take me forever; so I decided to put together a more detailed pictorial tutorial to help for now.
The stamp kit is quite easy to use; although our friends with huge fingers and/or those who are fine-motor-skills challenged may have a harder time with it. In spite of it being more difficult to set up initially, the end result is much easier and cleaner for producing consistent results, than a conventional rotary stamp, IMO. So here goes.
Again, this is what the kit looks like (less the stamp pad for those who purchased one):
In the kit, I’ve included a little 1/8” thick wooden shim to help make the stamping process almost fool-proof. On one side of the shim, I put some 2-sided tape. You would just need to peel off the paper backing on the tape to expose the adhesive; then you’re ready to attach the shim to the acrylic block.
Here you can see the shim attached to the acrylic block:
Next, for a little explanation (and/or reminder) of the kit and the polymer numbers that are used for stamping. These numbers were all hand cut from a larger sheet, and the sides of each number were carefully trimmed, so that they should fit comfortably into the templates provided. There will be some variation in the vertical length of each cut piece of polymer, but this should not interfere with number placement. If you find a specific number not fitting well next to another, you may need to cut away a little excess polymer from the base of the individual stamp. This should be done with a sharp pair of scissors.
There are two alignment templates provided, one right on the same sheet with the polymer numbers, and a separate one for those wishing to put a template directly onto their acrylic block. I’ll show both of these templates in action below. But first I’ll show the use of the template adjacent to the polymer numbers.
Here I am placing numbers onto this first template. These numbers go face down onto the template, and when seen from above, will be in the same order and configuration that they’ll appear on the headstock. The numbers stick to the acrylic block because of the type of polymer they're made from. They can be removed, repositioned (as needed) and reused over and over, and should not lose their stickiness.
You’ll see that I supplied a wooden toothpick with the kit. I’ve found that the little polymer numbers like to stick to tweezers and fingers, so the toothpick comes in handy for moving the numbers around and pressing them into place when you think you’ve got the number located correctly. The numbers don’t seem to stick to the toothpick, so it’s a good tool for this purpose.
Here you’ll see the numbers fully placed onto the template, with the printing side down. Note, as mentioned above, that there may be some extra polymer extending above or below the number, but this should not interfere with the side-to-side placement of the numbers onto the template.
Next, we take the acrylic block, with the shim side down, and place it over the numbers. Lowering the block onto the numbers, we then apply a little pressure, and then lift up the block. The numbers should release from the template, and adhere to the block when we lift up, as shown below:
To check the alignment of the numbers on the acrylic block, I like to hold them up to the light, or even the computer screen.
The numbers look pretty well aligned, so it’s on to the test print.
Continued in the next post…
I had some requests for a video on the whole stamp prep and stamping process, but having never produced one before, I figured it would take me forever; so I decided to put together a more detailed pictorial tutorial to help for now.
The stamp kit is quite easy to use; although our friends with huge fingers and/or those who are fine-motor-skills challenged may have a harder time with it. In spite of it being more difficult to set up initially, the end result is much easier and cleaner for producing consistent results, than a conventional rotary stamp, IMO. So here goes.
Again, this is what the kit looks like (less the stamp pad for those who purchased one):
In the kit, I’ve included a little 1/8” thick wooden shim to help make the stamping process almost fool-proof. On one side of the shim, I put some 2-sided tape. You would just need to peel off the paper backing on the tape to expose the adhesive; then you’re ready to attach the shim to the acrylic block.
Here you can see the shim attached to the acrylic block:
Next, for a little explanation (and/or reminder) of the kit and the polymer numbers that are used for stamping. These numbers were all hand cut from a larger sheet, and the sides of each number were carefully trimmed, so that they should fit comfortably into the templates provided. There will be some variation in the vertical length of each cut piece of polymer, but this should not interfere with number placement. If you find a specific number not fitting well next to another, you may need to cut away a little excess polymer from the base of the individual stamp. This should be done with a sharp pair of scissors.
There are two alignment templates provided, one right on the same sheet with the polymer numbers, and a separate one for those wishing to put a template directly onto their acrylic block. I’ll show both of these templates in action below. But first I’ll show the use of the template adjacent to the polymer numbers.
Here I am placing numbers onto this first template. These numbers go face down onto the template, and when seen from above, will be in the same order and configuration that they’ll appear on the headstock. The numbers stick to the acrylic block because of the type of polymer they're made from. They can be removed, repositioned (as needed) and reused over and over, and should not lose their stickiness.
You’ll see that I supplied a wooden toothpick with the kit. I’ve found that the little polymer numbers like to stick to tweezers and fingers, so the toothpick comes in handy for moving the numbers around and pressing them into place when you think you’ve got the number located correctly. The numbers don’t seem to stick to the toothpick, so it’s a good tool for this purpose.
Here you’ll see the numbers fully placed onto the template, with the printing side down. Note, as mentioned above, that there may be some extra polymer extending above or below the number, but this should not interfere with the side-to-side placement of the numbers onto the template.
Next, we take the acrylic block, with the shim side down, and place it over the numbers. Lowering the block onto the numbers, we then apply a little pressure, and then lift up the block. The numbers should release from the template, and adhere to the block when we lift up, as shown below:
To check the alignment of the numbers on the acrylic block, I like to hold them up to the light, or even the computer screen.
The numbers look pretty well aligned, so it’s on to the test print.
Continued in the next post…
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